A persian love affair....

Day 41,

Kaleybar and the infamous Babak Castle

Once out of Tabriz it was relatively pleasent journey upto Ahar the town
before the road climbs more sharply up to Kaleyabar. The landscape thus far
had been barren rock and sand. With greenery mainly confined to the
carefully manicured island strips in towns that prevent traffic from
driving on the opposite side of the road and to the banks of meanding rivers
that occasionally cut through the arid countryside.

Beyond Ahar however as the land rose and the climate became more temperate,
the landscape broke out into fertile pastures and inbetween wooded areas
planted with Walnut trees and orchards.

Rising still further up towards 2000m the route disappeared into a thick
fog, and the air temperature droped quickly, forcing me to stop and tie my
scarf around my face.

I eventually arrived in Kaleybar and the small mountian town was shrouded in
a very low opressive cloud that hid the top of the mountain
and Babak castle. I did what one can only do in this sort of situation and
had a chai!

As with Turkey, Iranian's take sugar with there tea and not milk. Normally
about 3 cubes, but rather than put these in the cup and use a spoon to
dissolve them, they pop the cube into there mouth and drink the tea over it,
thus saving on washing up! Now I tried this but I couldn't get it to work
and alway seemed to end up with a very sugery first mouthful and not much
after. In the tea house come restuarant, there was a group of 6 Iranains at
another table, they were curious to who I was and where I was from as I had
now become accustomed to. They offered me some soup and I ordered a kebab,
there was some discussion over my job and where I was staying. After further
discussion much in Farsi amongst themselves and the restaurant
proprieter, one of the chaps from the table said I must stay with him and
his family that evening as the hotel I wanted to stay in was closed. Ok this
sounded good to me, in the meantime he had also generously paid for my meal
too. We arranged to meet back at 6pm after he finished work.

I filled a few hours knocking about the town, meeting one of the town
photographers and having more chai and a wate pipe. Met some youths who were
fairly pleasent, tried to speak english to me with much difficulty and with
some hysterics from the assembly of friends, always a little disconcerting.


Eventually I returned to the restuarant, which was now shut, but someone
quickly came and opened it. 6pm came and went and after a while the
restaurant propriter and assembled curious colleagues, suggested he wasn't
coming, infact I think they tried to call him. I had been stood up. I wasn't
devastated as he wasn't Claudi Schiffer and I knew something else would
unfold. Eventually after some argument between the gahered locals as to who
would put me up and strangely it seemed I wasn't short of offers, it was
decided I was to stay with the propriter, a young chap called Babak, named
of coarse after the castle. At this stage I didn't really care who I stayed
with provided I had a little warmth and a roof and I gratefully accepted. We
stayed awhile in the restuarant and people came and went and answered the
inevitable rally of questions regarding my name, where I was from etc. At
about 8pm I was taken to his home just behind the restaurant.
It turned out he had three other brothers and one sister. One brother was
married and ran the small shop next door, one helped in the restuarant and
the other was still at school. The sister who seemed to speak Ok english,
but unfotunately stayed fairly hidden away, helped at home and had finished
university.

There home was spacious mainly due to the lack of furniture. I have since
discovered this is fairly typical of traditional homes. The floor was
covered in rugs, that stretch from wall to wall, with some cushions arranged
along the walls near the gas burner, with a TV in one corner on a display
unit. There was a small kitchen and two further spaces curtained off from
the main living room. Some fake flowers and pictures sparsley adourned the
walls, one could almost say it was modernist bungalow, with the odd ethenic
and post modern touch.

I ate with the men and the women ate in the kitchen. This was of coarse done
on the floor using a large sort of picnic sheet. We had already removed our
shoes at the front door, so tucked our socks under the sheet so it became a
sort of table cloth come servette. After dinner using various aids,
including my Point it book, sound effects and some scraps of Farsi in the
lonely planet, i communciated the best i could. We drank much tea, which now
always came with a spoon much to there amusement, nuts, fruit etc. At one
point a small bottle of the infamous home brew appeared but I think that
with the whole family present, I prevented from trying it. It smelt pretty
strong though.

Time went on and I was asked at what time I usually went to sleep. Now this
was tricky because, basically everyone will stay up till you say you would
like to go to sleep. So i said about 11pm, which was overshot by some
protracted discussion. Nearing midnight the bedding came out and the men
headed for one area and the women another. I was directed to a futon style
matress on the floor. I wasn't really sure what the dress code was for bed
so I went with boxers and a T-shirt, everyone else seemed to have some sort
of track suit bottoms, I didn't seem to cause offence though. I think I fell
asleep within minutes of being in bed.


Day 42,

Kaleybar and the infamous Babak Castle

I woke hoping to head for the castle, unfortunately the weather was still dismally foggy. So i kicked around in the village and then I went with one of the brothers to there garden. The weather was very wet and it felt like a bit of a ridiculous mission. i say mission because the garden was not a back garden but more of an oversize allotment about 5 mins from the town on a mountian side. When we got there, i could hear frenzied dog barking, great I thought so far wild dogs and I haven't got on too well.

The dog came running like a shot out of a gun towards me teeth blazing, I had been given the backpack to carry which contained some chicken we planned to barbeque, so the dog saw me as a long awaited meal!

Thankfully Babak had some control over the beast and at the last moment steered him away from my vunerable (juicy looking) leg. the dog I found out was wild and had been found on the mountain and recieved food from the family, some what sporadically I guessed and in turn it acted as a guard dog over there garden. It was pretty good at this as it demonstrated noty only to me but to a passing sheperd scaring the living daylight out of the poor man and almost taking his arm off. I have experienced this else where and it seems to be a fairly common method of keeping intruders out. Unfortunately we couldn't got to the main garden as the river one must cross to get there had swelled under the rainfall so we had to do with there other orchard. my host set about lighting a fire to cook the chicken, now everything was pretty wet and at this stage I was getting a little frustrated being sat in a wet muddy ground next to a beast (the dog) that was plainly hungrier than i was. Eventually some petrol appeared from somewhere and my friends fire lighting skills came out. The petrol I didn't mind to much but when also tried to ignite the collected wood with a plastic crate he had found, i did step in and suggest that perhaps if we planned on consuming the cooked goods I would prefer them not to be tinged with plastic fumes. In the end the open fire kebabs we cooked were great and the dog got his share.

When we returned to the house the father of the family had returned from Tabriz along with his brother and through broken english the conversation tunred to politics.
Iranians are intruged to know what the English people think about Iran and why the goverment has a problem with Iran. I gently explained that bar the nuclear issue we do not hear a great deal of Iran in our press. Interestingly the family explained that like the people I had met in Tabriz, they felt more connected to Azerbaijan than Iran. In fact they were rightly upset with the current goverment, who had last year banned an annual festival that took place at Babak castle that many Azari (people of the region) went to. The festival was a celebration of Babak an anciet freeman who resided in the castle when the region had much more power. The festival consisted of people whereing local dress, drinking (alcohol) and general merriment. The local area was rightly very upset about this. The goverments reason, being that they felt it was breeding a desire for autonomy, and they strictly enforced the ban with a massive police presence on the day and time in jail for anyone who wouldn't abide by this. For me this was one of the first indication of how parnoid the Iran state is... perhaps rightly so.

That night we had a huge family meal and later I went hunting with the boys of the family. We didn't see a thing, i was jokingly blamed... I suggested they cam to England as there are plenty of Rabbits...

OK TIME TO BE BRIEF AGAIN

Day 43,
Sara'eyn,

Bit of dump, Iranian tourist resort... hot spring meant to cure anything from baldness to MS. So went for a swim and surprise, surprise still bald! Also saw lots of other people will seriouys aliments, felt a little wierd.

Met some Iranian kids, who were very curious to find out about England, the US etc. They wanted to know about how it is with English girls, I told them they are nightmare... talked about drinking, music, Iranain dating... etc. They were around all around 16 years old, so you can imagine there interests. They really weren't keen on the goverment, and dreamt of leaving Iran. Unfortunately I have found this too often to be the case...


Day 44,

Masuleh,

Beautiful stepped village in the mountains, unfortunately shrouded in fog and drizzle. Met a funny Iranian guy who was the son of a hotelier, Soroosh. Stayed in a hut rather like those of south east asia, but with out the beach and sunshine. Still very peaceful.

Read my book.

Day 45

Masuleh

Went for a walk with my umbrella, still managed to get soaked, and fall over covering myself in mud.

In the afternoon, met some design, beauty and english students. They were very funny and again curious. Not to much English between them, but more reason for me to speak Farsi, which I tried absimally.

Exchanged numbers with them.

Day 46

Zanjan

Headed off for Zanjan, got out of the fog that covers the Caspian coast and travelled up a wide river valley, eventually passing a large dam and a bank of wind turbines on the other side of the resevoir. The landscape was very lunar-esk, created by Volcano's thousands of years ago. Crossed another mountain range, higher this time and much colder, in fact the road passed up into the cloud before dropping down the otherside into sun.

Stayed in a filthy hotel, but met a friendly engineer over tea who I showed we around and we had something to eat. Explained to his friend I didn't believe in god much to his dismay... i have had this reaction a few times now in Iran.

Day 47

Takestan

Before Takestan i went to see a large domed building with much scaffold. It was a Unesco world hertiage site, it was quite empressive, but I think they had quite alot of work still to do on it.

Takestan was a bit of dump and nothing to see but I met up with two friends that I had made in Masuleh. Both called Maryam, both were heading for Tehran so we hung out and in the end I stayed with a family who were there friends.

The family's daughter was a good painter and I expressed an interest and immediatley ever painting she had ever done appeared. She had talent, but unfortunately now where to use it...

One of the son in laws was a hairdresser and was keen to rid me of my now large beard but I was having none of it... they didn't really get the idea behind growing it, mind you I am starting to have doubts too... some said I look like across between Dostyevski and Castro... not sure who would be better..

Day 48

Qazvin

In the morning I went to the internet to show the Maryam's were I was bought up, school, university, designers I liked etc. Unfortunately most music sites, facebook and myspace are blocked here. So the internet show did something that got by it and I showed them the photo's from facebook. I think some of them, from some of our rather heavier nights out were perhaps a little to different from the life they know.

After that it was time to hit the road, they bought me a present before I left of a plastic rose to put on the bike, it was my request, I thought it went well with the bell from Austria.

Qazvin, arrived late, not a bad city, a few interesting things to see.

Met a nice guy who ran a model airplane shop.

Day 49

Qazvin,

Went for a wonder to see the sites... almost got run over by a car (actualy it wasnt that close), then the driver proceeded to beckon me into his car and take me for a tea at his tailor shop. he was very comical and he had a good banter with his staff. None could speak english but I felt very relaxed.

Later I met up with the airplane shop man and he had a friend with him who was a manager at the Unilever factory. He could speak good english. We went for a drive around the city and i saw some of the sites. Conversation turned to politics and I had the first proper discussion about USA and Israel.

I have to say my lack of knowledge on Zionism and the foundation of Israel put me at a disadvantage, but he really wasn't keen on its existence in the middle east. He inferred that perhaps the holocaust didn't happen also, which I found a little surprising. I had read a newspaper earlier that day and been watching Iranian news and I have to say it is absolute drivel! It is so full of propoganda it is not a surprise that you might end up thinking everyone is out to get you.

In fairness both sides of Israel's and Iran's goverment have said very foolish things, my only hope is that it is only retoric.

We discussed Iraq, there is still alot of pain in Iran from the war that we heard little about between Iraq and Iran. 1 million people lost there lives in virtual trench warfare till 1990. Everywhere you go here you see dedications to the Martyrs of the war.


Day 50

Tehran

Came to Tehran and surprisingly found a Hotel and parked the bike all relatively easily.

Tehran traffic is absurd, I have already discussed this though so I will not dwell, except to say "What is wrong with these people!"

Met up with the brother of a friend of my sisters, who I will call Farzad. Very interesting discussing with him the politics of the middle east and the history of the revolution.

There were a couple of things in particular that I want to share, there is a opinion that Iran is trying to negotiate itself as the voice of the Islamic world and essentially the middle east. The goverment does seem obessed with foriegn policy and demonising the US. Everywhere I go people ask me what people in the US and England think of Iran, expecting me to say everyone thinks it is dangerous and a scary country. I tell them honestly that we don't hear much about Iran and what we do usually involves the Nuclear facilities. People who think of it as scary are usually ignorant of the reality.

Unfortunately I have seen many down with Israel and US posters since I have been here and seen a large rally, attended by what looked like bussed in school children, all of whom were girls, who I doubt had any real knowledge of the US or its foriegn policy. This by and large does not mirror the general publics opinion, which is dominated by curiosity rather than any sort of hatred. In fact I met two Americains today, who have only been welcomed since they have been in Iran.

Back to the conversation with Farzad, we also talked about the revolution, he told me that obiviously many people lost there business after the fall of the Shar, and many of the Communists who helped establish it were later, tried and put to death. There are theories that perhaps, our old friend the US actually supported and sponsored the Islamic groups after the revelution as they were scared the Communists might get control of the country.

We also talked about Tehran and really if you have the money it is like any other city. You can drink, you can party, you can have a girlfriend, you get into fights, it seems more often with the police than anyone else. You can walk around with girls your are not related to or married to with out being stopped by the police, unlike the rest of Iran.

Day 51

Tehran.

The next day I put this into practise meeting up with one of the Maryams. We went to the Contemporary Art Museum which was really quite good. Then the photographers gallery, which had a celebration of the Hajib, much to Marayam's disgust (she wasn't a fan of this item of clothing), then the National Jewel Museum. My god Iran has alot of jewels and jewellery. Really the most incrediable peieces, I think I have ever seen, not that I am an expert, but I did do a show for a Prince once, don't you know.

Later I met up with a Dutch journalist I had met. He was in Tehran, undercover to write about the US election. To be honest I didn't think there was much of a story here as people didn't really seem to care... perhaps slightly in favour of Barrack, but to them it was all the same.

Then we bumped into a another Dutch journalist however she wasn't writing a story. We went to the Armenian Club, which I think is one of the only restauarants in Tehran where you don't have to wear a Hijab. Armenians are generally Christians and tend to be more openly drinkers and non hijab wearers. I think about 5% of the Iranian population are Armenians.

Day 52,

Tehran,

Hung out with Maryam again, we went to the Bazaar, which has a huge economic influence on the country, it is where alot of the big deals are done. Then we went to the Iran National Museum, which had some great pieces from Persopolis.

Later met Farzad and his girlfriend for dinner. Had very tasty kebabs... I have had alot of kebabs since I have been in Iran, however these were definitely worth a mention.

Day 53,

Tehran,

Saw a demonstration outside the US Den of Espionage (Formally the US Embassy), this is where the CIA, with Britains backing, plotted to over throw the Iranian goverment with a Coup that took place in 1953 as it had nationalised Anglo-Iranian Oil and we weren't happy about the loss of revenue.In 1979 this where the revolutionary guard stormed the building at the begining of the revolution and took everyone hostage for 444 days..

Now there are anti-US murals on the outside and I imagine it is were most anti-US rallies are held, such as the one I saw.

Later I went to the Golestan Palace with my Dutch friend, the palace is a shrine to all the excesses of the Shars of yester year.

We then went for a tour on the bike and ended up at the parlimentary libiary and we were recieved by the head of PR amd international affairs for the libiary, it was very nice, but slightly disconcerting that he asked us to write our full names down for him, so he could "learn them"...

Later I bumped into the Kiwi couple, whom I had met in Tabriz, weird! Unfortunately Racheals boyfriend, Tristian had just been hit by a bus and although seemed fine, I am sure was pretty shaken. He had gone to hospital and had all the checks and had the x-ray transparencies to prove it. It was another reminder of why the roads in Iran are the largest cause of death.

Later went back to my bike to go back to the hotel, I had complacently left it on the street till about mid-night, this was not such a good idea. Unfortunately someone had, had the mirrors away, some billy cans for camping and most depressingly my bell from Austria. C'est La Vie...

Day 54,

Esfahan

Arrived late after a long day's riding. From Tehran I had stopped to see the great Imman Khomeini's Shrine a massive complex just south of Tehran. Talk about biggin your self up!

Started to really ride in the desert now and pass by more barren mountians.

Have to be careful with petrol here as the stations are not so close together.

Met a young lad, also riding in Iran, he was harmless but a bit of a plonker.

He like me had just passed his liscence, bought a large 650cc motorbike, had it stolen twice, broke down severly in Germany with a huge 3700 Euro repair bill. Then crashed it and broke his leg for 6 months... actually I have to respect him for keeping going!

Day 55,

Esfahan,

Stunning city! Absolutely beautiful. Imman Sq is incredible and the bridges and river make a beautiful place to stroll in the evening.

Met the a ridicualous Philosophy student called Saman and his friend. He is desperate to marry an English girl and move to London... so if anyone knows anyone... i have a photo and he is willing to pay...

Day 56,

Esfahan,

Went to a couple of beautiful palaces and then hung out with Saman. He like many is really fed up with the lack of freedom under the current goverment. He in fact had trained to be a clergy but had, had a huge U turn in belief and become an athiest. He was very well read and obviously had talent that would be wasted in Iran as idealogically he could never work with or within the current state, hence his desperation to leave.